THE REPUBLIC OF
BOLIVIA
THE ISOLATED
NORTH EAST
NOEL KEMPFF MERCADO
NATIONAL PARK AND THE ENDEMIC BLUE-THROATED MACAWS
17 DAYS
The 1.5 million acre Noel Kempff Mercado Park is
one of the great conservation units of South America. Consisting of woodland and
savanna, cerrado, tierra firme and semi-deciduous woodlands, the area is so
isolated we will be dependant on light aircraft to get us around this
spectacular park. The bird list for the park is well over 700 species and the
startling scenery and variety of habitats, makes this a birding trip of a
lifetime. This coupled with the wet savannas and gallery forests of the Beni
department outside the town of Trinidad makes for a once-in-a-lifetime
experience. We can expect to record 400
plus species on this trip, many of which are difficult to see elsewhere.
Day 01 : International flights arrive at
Viru-Viru airport in Santa Cruz early in the morning so we'll head out birding
just north of the airport to some open grasslands and gallery woodland. We'll be
looking for some of the following : White-bellied Northura, Red-winged Tinamou,
Long-winged Harrier, Golden-collared Macaw, Bicolored Seedeater, White
Woodpecker, and Greater Rhea amongst others. The afternoon we'll spend at a
locality where we have had luck in the past with the strange Red-legged Seriema
Here the birds we'll be looking for as well as the Seriema include Blue-crowned
and Yellow-chevroned Parakeets, Picazuro Pigeon, Epaulet Oriole, Straight billed
and Narrow-billed Woodcreepers, Spot-backed Puffbird. Night at our comfortable
air conditioned hotel in Santa Cruz.
Day 02 – A full day to explore the Lomas de
Arena regional park. This small municipal park protects some very good habitat.
In the morning we’ll work the chaco type scrub for birds which include,
White-eared Puffbird, Pale-breasted and Chotoy Spinetails, Common and Greater
Thornbirds, Plush-crested and Purplish Jays, White-rumped Monjita, Chaco Suriri,
White-crested Elaenia, Southern Lapwing, Blue-winged Parrotlet, Campo Flicker,
Great Antshrike, Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Pearly-vented Tody-Flycatcher. After
lunch and a short break at the hotel we’ll visit an area of woodland more
reminiscent of Brazilian cerrado habitat where we’ll be looking for
Stripe-backed Antbird, Plumbeous Seedeater, Chalk-browed and White-banded
Mockingbirds and more. Night at our hotel in Santa Cruz.
Day 03: Morning flight from Santa Cruz to the
bustling town of Trinidad situated
in the flooded savannas of Beni. On
arrival at the airport we'll bird
the road to
Loma Suarez with a picnic lunch. This area is full of birds.
Concentrating on a dry riverine gallery woodland, possibilities include Mato
Grosso Antbird, Plain Softail, Undulated Tinamou, Straight-billed and
Buff-throated Woodcreepers, White-eyed Attila, Short-tailed Pygmy-tyrant,
Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Golden-collared
Macaw, White-tailed Goldenthroat, Golden-tailed Sapphire, Rufous
Casiornis, Long-winged Harrier, Velvet-fronted
Grackle and Hooded Tanager. Night
at our air conditioned hotel in Trinidad
Day 04: We'll drive to El Cutal Ranch
to-day concentrating on open flooded fields and scrubby pasture. Possibilities
include Plumbeous, Green, Buff-necked, Plumbeous and Bare-faced Ibis, Comb Duck,
Roseate Spoonbill, Maguari Stork, Jabiru, Southern Screamer, Muscovy Duck,
Scarlet-hooded and Unicolored Blackbirds, Greater Thornbird, 3 species of
Monjita, Bicolored Seedeater, Toco Toucan, Great Rufous
and Narrow-billed Woodcreeper,Rusty-margined Flycatcher, various
Whistling Ducks, Little Cuckoo, Orange-winged Parrot, Azure Gallinule,
Slender-billed kite, Black-collared Hawk
, Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher, Chotoy , Cinereous-breasted , Plain-crowned and
Yellow-chinned Spinetails, Rufous Chachalote and Fawn-breasted Wren. We’ll
look for Blue-throated Macaw coming into roost this evening. Night at El Cutal
Ranch.
Day 05 : Another morning to look for the
Blue-throated Macaws should we have missed them the previous afternoon. This
large and spectacular Macaw was thought extinct until this small remnant
population was discovered a few years ago. Birding here is dynamite with Rheas,
Pale-crested Woodpecker, Gray-lined Hawk, Hoatzin, Turquoise-fronted
Parrot, Gilded and Swallow-tailed Hummingbirds,
Green-barred and Spot-breasted Woodpeckers and
much, much more. Night at El
Cutal ranch
Day 06 We'll return to Trinidad birding en route
and catch the afternoon flight to
Santa Cruz. Night in
Santa Cruz.
Day 07 : To-day we'll take an aircraft charter to
the Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, specifically Los Fierros which is the
main park ranger station within this vast untouched park. This is a two and half
hour flight, initially over small farms and cleared areas, but the second half
of the flight over pristine savanna and untouched rainforest. This area is
wetter than Flor de Oro and supports true rainforest and savanna. After lunch,
afternoon birding at Los Fierros. Night at Los Fierros Lodge. The accommodations
are simple but all rooms are provided with mosquito nets and all the necessary
commodities. As for the rest of this trip in the park, the food is exceptional
with a Brazilian touch. Indeed the cooks are from just across the border in
Brazil.
Days 08-11 : Four full days birding near Los
Fierros to explore the isolated rainforest and savannas. This area is rich in
birds and mammals and we will be concentrating on large tracts of wet forest and
two types of savanna habitat, one reminiscent of the better know Brazilian
cerrado. We’ll be on the lookout for birds such as : Brazilian Tinamou, White
browed Hawk, Gray-bellied Goshawk, Pompadour and Spangled Cotingas,
Crimson-bellied Parakeet, 3 species of Potoo, Scissor-tailed and Little
Nightjar, Razor-billed Currasow, Rufous-necked Puffbird, Red-necked Aracari,
White-chinned, Red-billed and Concolor Woodcreeper, Saturnine Antshrike,
Snethlage's and Zimmer's Tody-tyrants, Viloaceous Trogon, White-necked Puffbird,
Spot-billed Toucanet, Sclaters and pygmy Antwrens, Fiery-capped and Snow-capped
Manakins, Buff-chested and Ashy-headed Greenlets, the beautiful Horned Sungem,
Collared Crescentchest, Tooth-billed Wren, Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch and White-rumped
Tanagers and a variety of Seedeaters and Flycatchers. Amazonian Antshrikes
abound and Spectacled Owls call in the lodge clearing. This a place for mammals
too and last trip we had ‘scope looks at both Jaguar and Jaguarundi. A
night-birding excursion to the savannas gives us a chance of seeing the little
known Maned Wolf. All nights at Los Fierros Lodge.
Day 12 :Early morning birding at Los Fierros and
afternoon flight Flor de Oro. The Serrania de Huanchaca dominates the horizon,
with it's red cliffs and sparkling
waterfalls and we’ll make a spectacular over-flight of this sandstone plateau
which was first described by English explorer Sir Percy Fawcett and gave Sir
Arthur Conan Doyle his idea for his story about the Lost World of Dinosaurs.
Spectacular waterfalls rush below us before we arrive at our destination -the
Flor de Oro lodge, a very comfortable place to
stay on the banks of the Rio Itanez which forms the boundary with Brazil.
In fact Brazil is so close you will add species to your Brazil list from the
screened porch. Night Flor de Oro Lodge.
Days 13-15 :
Three full days birding the Flor de Oro area. Birding starts right
outside the door of your room and the snorts of the rare Giant Otter and the
splashing of Amazonian River Dolphins can be heard from your en suite room. In
this locality we will divide our time between forest trails and open grasslands.
Habitats here include dry and semi deciduous woodlands, gallery forest and some
wetter forest near Lago Caiman.. Some of the special birds we will be looking
for include : Southern Screamer, Black-collared Hawk, Blue-tufted Startthroat,
Lettered Aracari, Long-billed and Striped Woodcreeper, Stripe-necked Tody-Tyrant,
Cinnamon Attila, Burnished-Buff Tanager, Red-throated Piping-guan, Sungrebe,
Sunbittern, several species of Macaw including Hyacinth, Painted and
Crimson-bellied Parakeets, Pied Pufffbird, Rufous-capped Nunlet, Channel-billed
and Toco Toucans, Cream-colored Woodpecker, Rusty-backed Spinetail,,
White-fringed and Rusty-backed Antwrens, Black-spotted Bare-eye, Plain-crested
Elaenia, Flavescent Wabler, Flame-crowned and Band-tailed Manakins, Gray-chested
Greenlet, and the rare
Black-and-Tawny Seedeater which is basically restricted to this locality. One
day we’ll make a full day trip upriver with a packed lunch to Lago Caiman and
walk a trail that leads to the Huanchaca plateau. Here our target birds will
include Zimmers Tody-Tyrant and Natterer’s Slaty Antshrike. Other birds
include Amazonian Antpitta, White-backed Fire-eye and Rufous-winged Antwren. The
ox-bow lake should produce and abundance of Macaws, Green Ibis, a variety of
Herons, Muscovy Duck and much more Nights
Flor de Oro Lodge.
Day 16 : Morning birding around Flor de Oro and
in the late morning we'll fly back to Santa Cruz for lunch. If time permits
we’ll bird the Santa Cruz Botanical Garden and it’s extensive grounds for
local chaco birds we may have missed. Night at our comfortable hotel in Santa
Cruz and farewell dinner in a nearby restaurant.
Day 17 Transfer to Viru-Viru international
airport to connect with morning international flights home.
Editor's Note: Sherri LaBar wrote an excellent report on the 1996 trip
with Bird Bonanzas. It's very detailed and worth getting- be sure to
reimburse GMF for printing & postage.
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